What is that thing behind the Battery with Positive Connection?

  
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What is that thing behind the Battery with Positive Connection?

 
lonewolf11 lonewolf11
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 105 | Joined: 04/09
Posted: 04/10/12
09:22 AM

Very important to me as I have seen nothing, picture wise or other, to tell me what that (tiny diagram in Chiltons Manual calls it a Carbon Fiber) thing located behind the battery tray is with so many wires attached to it? I am replacing the battery, dead cell, and the Voltage Regulator in the Alternator tomorrow & need to know if this has to do with the charging system? Any help here would be greatly appreciated. I do know that a wire from the Positive Cable is attached to it. I believe I was informed that it may need cleaning(?) as I can't seem to find a replacement on any Auto Parts stores sites. HELP please... thanks, frustrated.  Confused

In a rush to get to work I forgot to mention this is a 1987 Corvette.  
Gregorio Lonewolf

87corvette 87corvette
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 171 | Joined: 03/12
Posted: 04/10/12
09:32 AM

This does need to be cleaned as well as the ground wires.  Wayne put up a nice diagram with grounds on it in another thread.  I am sure he will chime in and possibly post this for you again in this thread.  The block where the positive wire meets the other wires is a junction block I believe.  

waynep71222 waynep71222
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 241 | Joined: 04/12
Posted: 04/10/12
10:33 PM

90 C4 Corvette L98 Engineharness  

87corvette 87corvette
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 171 | Joined: 03/12
Posted: 04/11/12
09:11 AM

Does the part resemble this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Corvette-Junction-Block-Forward-Light-Harness-/251017903593?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACorvette&hash=item3a71d53de9&vxp=mtr

This is not exactly what you have, but it kind of serves the same purpose. I think you are referring to what is called the jumpstart junction block.  It is where positive wires from several circuits meet to distribute power.  It will need cleaning if it shows any signs of dirt/corrosion.  Kind of like judging if a battery terminal should be cleaned.  

lonewolf11 lonewolf11
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 105 | Joined: 04/09
Posted: 04/11/12
09:24 AM

Thank you Wayne for the diagram. Thank you 87corvette as that is what it looks like. I decided for the cost of the Voltage Regulator I may as well just get a whole new Alternator. Now back to this crazy thing, Junction Block, just how does one go about cleaning it? What is the proper way to do so? Wayne, I think in one of our phone conversations you mentioned this but could one of you refresh this old farts memory? Thanks again so much.  
Gregorio Lonewolf

lonewolf11 lonewolf11
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 105 | Joined: 04/09
Posted: 04/11/12
09:28 AM

Icon Quote87corvette:
Does the part resemble this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Corvette-Junction-Block-Forward-Light-Harness-/251017903593?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACorvette&hash=item3a71d53de9&vxp=mtr

This is not exactly what you have, but it kind of serves the same purpose. I think you are referring to what is called the jumpstart junction block.  It is where positive wires from several circuits meet to distribute power.  It will need cleaning if it shows any signs of dirt/corrosion.  Kind of like judging if a battery terminal should be cleaned.


87corevtte, just to get my message out to you...

Thank you Wayne for the diagram. Thank you 87corvette as that is what it looks like. I decided for the cost of the Voltage Regulator I may as well just get a whole new Alternator. Now back to this crazy thing, Junction Block, just how does one go about cleaning it? What is the proper way to do so? Wayne, I think in one of our phone conversations you mentioned this but could one of you refresh this old farts memory? Thanks again so much.

Tomorrow is my day off from work & my day to finish this Corvette work. I need to get back on the road and you have been a big help. I also found a wire to the starter had frayed and exposed a bit so I am replacing the connector and insuring the fray is gone with a good connection as well.  
Gregorio Lonewolf

87corvette 87corvette
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 171 | Joined: 03/12
Posted: 04/11/12
09:38 AM

As Wayne mentioned, a wooden handle stainless steel wire brush works good.  I also like using a scotchbrite pad.  Just rub each side of each wire connector until it is shiny.  There are like five or more wires going to that block I believe.  Then just rub the stud and the base of the stud where the wires mount.  You should be good to go.  As Wayne mentioned too, make sure it is the alternator specifically for the 87 Vette.  

87corvette 87corvette
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 171 | Joined: 03/12
Posted: 04/11/12
09:40 AM

Also, it goes without mentioning but make sure the negative battery cable is disconnected before you attempt this.  Actually, I think the battery has to be out anyway to properly do this job.  

lonewolf11 lonewolf11
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 105 | Joined: 04/09
Posted: 04/11/12
10:44 AM

Icon Quote87corvette:
As Wayne mentioned, a wooden handle stainless steel wire brush works good.  I also like using a scotchbrite pad.  Just rub each side of each wire connector until it is shiny.  There are like five or more wires going to that block I believe.  Then just rub the stud and the base of the stud where the wires mount.  You should be good to go.  As Wayne mentioned too, make sure it is the alternator specifically for the 87 Vette.

Thanks but I am not seeing Wayne's response in the posts for some reason. The wires & connectors actually look to be very clean but I am going to "scotchbrite" them anyway. I think this may be the best way vs the wire brush. I thought possibly there was some cleaning internally but maybe not.

The alternator is specific for my Corvette (105 amps) from AutoZone. In replacing the battery I think I should go with the 700 cca @ 875 ca vs the 650 cca @ 815 ca as it is stronger & should be better able to handle the size Comp Cam I have & the fact I have 10:5.1 Flat Top Racing Pistons installed. With 1.6 Stainless Roller Rocker's.

Your thoughts on the battery choice greatly respected.

Summit Racing Comp Cam Part #CCA-12-239-3

Cam Specs:

Cam Style  Hydraulic Flat Tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range  1,300-5,600
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift  218
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift  226
Duration at 050 inch Lift  218 int./226 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration  262
Advertised Exhaust Duration  270
Advertised Duration  262 int./270 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio  0.462 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio  0.480 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio  0.462 int./0.480 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees)  111

Grind Number  CS X4 262H-11  
Gregorio Lonewolf

waynep71222 waynep71222
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 241 | Joined: 04/12
Posted: 04/11/12
07:04 PM

i don't know cam specs...  its compression and timing that the starter has to overpower..

stainless steel wire TOOTHBRUSHES..

Stainlesssteeltoothbrush2

lets test the amount of charge in the battery..

engine off.. turn on the headlights for one minute.. then turn them off..

12.65 volts DC is a fully charged battery
12.45 volts DC is a 3/4 charged battery
12.25 volts DC is a 1/2 charged battery..

when you charge a battery.. the charger will put a surface charge above the real charge.. so you have to turn the head lights on for one minute then turn them off..  and measure the amount of charge with your digital volt meter..


the voltage regulator on your charging system is INSIDE the alternator.. if you have an stock design alternator..

let me go off on a tangent..

yesterday a really good friend came over with his 91 camry.. it was running rough and stalling.   i grabbed my digital volt meter..   ran the tests..

1.. 14.1 volts.. and fluttering around slightly..

2.  0.8 volts

3   1.1 volts..

4   1.1 volts..

to examine the stalling problem i removed the idle air control and cleaned it.. cleaned the throttle body.. removed the DUCT tape from the inlet duct and replaced it with some trick rubber tape i have..    then i got down to cleaning grounds..    there are 5 ground connections.. 2 from the passenger side shock tower.. to the motor mount bracket and the intake manifold.   the stud into the motor mount had corrosion on it..   when i went to tighten it.. it would NOT tighten..  the threads pulled out of the bracket.. so i grabbed a used bolt.. stuck it through from the other side and then put the bracket and ground wire then nut and tightened it down firmly.. one down..
still had 1.1 volts on 3 and 4 tests.. battery charging was up to 14.25 volts..

went and pulled the battery..  i had already cleaned the cable ends and where the cabled attached to the terminals..    the small wire from the negative cable went UNDER the battery tray..  cleaned that..      moved the air cleaner box.. followed the thick part of the negative battery cable down to the bracket on the transmission to engine bolt..   that BOLT was LOOSE.. not even snug..   i removed it.. wire brushed the corroded ring terminal end.. wire brushed the bolt under the head.. put it back together..  reinstalled the filter and the tray.. dropped the battery back in it..   started it..  turned on the headlights..

1.   14.65 volts..

2.    0.03 volts

3.    0.02 volts

4.    0.02 volts..      edit... sorry guys.. i left out a zero..  i fixed it..  

he could NOT believe that the car ran so much better after this hour or so of yacking and cleaning..  every thing worked better.. the car started on the first turn of the key..  idled perfectly..

SPEND THE TIME AND CLEAN THE GROUNDs.. all of them..

sorry i don't have pictures of the corvette wiring connections..  line drawing is the closest i could come up with..  

87corvette 87corvette
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 171 | Joined: 03/12
Posted: 04/12/12
01:26 AM

That is a nice cam, but I don't think your cars computer will like it.  I don't think the fuel system can vary enough with the stock calibration to keep your motor happy.  With the 1.6 rockers, you may be getting a little close to valve spring coil bind with the stock heads.  If you go with the 1.6 rockers, your exhaust lift is actually going to be .512".  If it is a little snug, you could always use the stock rockers on the exhaust and the 1.6 rockers on the intake.  I was thinking of doing this on my stock engine but I am not sure about the computer calibration issue.  Check out this link:

http://www.cranecams.com/faqview.php?s_id=21

I think your LSA is perfect.  Also, be sure the distributor gear is compatible with the cam.  

lonewolf11 lonewolf11
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 105 | Joined: 04/09
Posted: 04/12/12
08:23 AM

Icon Quote87corvette:
That is a nice cam, but I don't think your cars computer will like it.  I don't think the fuel system can vary enough with the stock calibration to keep your motor happy.  With the 1.6 rockers, you may be getting a little close to valve spring coil bind with the stock heads.  If you go with the 1.6 rockers, your exhaust lift is actually going to be .512".  If it is a little snug, you could always use the stock rockers on the exhaust and the 1.6 rockers on the intake.  I was thinking of doing this on my stock engine but I am not sure about the computer calibration issue.  Check out this link:

http://www.cranecams.com/faqview.php?s_id=21

I think your LSA is perfect.  Also, be sure the distributor gear is compatible with the cam.


Thanks 87corvette for this valuable input. My engine builder had sent the heads to a machine shop where they cleaned and did what they needed to do while adding all new springs, guides etc to match the 1.6 rocker's to not have any issue's. The internals on the heads were in bad shape so all was replaced while matching them for the 1.6 rocker's.

The Memcal has been reprogramed for all of the new engines specs, including the cam, that it has been updated with. Since the engine build I had put 181 miles on it before I accidently broke the EGR Cross Over Tube Temperature Sensor Switch. All of which led me down this current road to replacing the Fuel Injector's and all of the sensor's ie MAF etc. including wireing.

I, however, cannot say if the Distributor Gear is compatible with the Cam as I do know I never took this into account. I was on a very tight budget at the December Holiday time when the engine was built & just used the original Distributor from the old engine into the new one. Good spotting on your part, now I have something else to look into. I feel it is worth my time to do so. Thanks.

Just re-read your comments 87 corvette & need to mention that I installed an Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator & Diaphram. I hope that the rest of the Fuel System is up to the task. It should be... I have adjusted my fuel pressure to 50 psi to insure that the injector's are flowing at 80%, no more than that. During the 181 miles I put on her, what a lovely sound it gave me, even in idle. Music to my ears.  
Gregorio Lonewolf

lonewolf11 lonewolf11
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 105 | Joined: 04/09
Posted: 04/12/12
08:27 AM

Wayne, again you are such great help & I love to hear from you with your input. I have been learning so much. See old dogs can learn new tricks. Believe I am following all of your advise. I will advise you if the thing starts & more importantly, RUNS. It's still early enough in the morning I haven't started yet but going into the garage now. I will let you & 87corevette know the results. Thanks to both of you for your help here.  
Gregorio Lonewolf

lonewolf11 lonewolf11
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 105 | Joined: 04/09
Posted: 04/12/12
09:39 AM

Icon Quote87corvette:
That is a nice cam, but I don't think your cars computer will like it.  I don't think the fuel system can vary enough with the stock calibration to keep your motor happy.  With the 1.6 rockers, you may be getting a little close to valve spring coil bind with the stock heads.  If you go with the 1.6 rockers, your exhaust lift is actually going to be .512".  If it is a little snug, you could always use the stock rockers on the exhaust and the 1.6 rockers on the intake.  I was thinking of doing this on my stock engine but I am not sure about the computer calibration issue.  Check out this link:

http://www.cranecams.com/faqview.php?s_id=21

I think your LSA is perfect.  Also, be sure the distributor gear is compatible with the cam.


Back to the Distributor Gear, the engine builder took this into account when building the engine so far as I know. Calling to confirm this with him... Thanks.  
Gregorio Lonewolf

87corvette 87corvette
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 171 | Joined: 03/12
Posted: 04/13/12
06:23 AM

Great!  It is crazy that the sensor in that cross-over tube would cause all of this.  I too am learning about all of the details about this 87 of mine.  Wayne has taught me a lot from these threads.  I took automotive technology in college, but it has been many years ago.  Engine theory was my favorite and these past few weeks have re-sparked that interest.  I too modified my L98 (minor mods) by removing the A.I.R. and EGR system as you know from my other posts.  My car is running very lean now.  I still have to put that heated o2 sensor in.  I was side-tracked with another project.  Oddly enough, no codes have been thrown.  I had one since the mods but it was a TPS code.  I replaced the TPS and no more codes, but still very lean.  Hard to start.  I have to keep turning the key on and off to energize the fuel pump several times to get it to start.  When it does run, it has very poor throttle response.  Again it sounds lean.  I was wondering if an adjustable regulator would help mine. ???  

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