1987 Corvette Won't Start after New Engine Install

  
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1987 Corvette Won't Start after New Engine Install

 
lonewolf11 lonewolf11
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 105 | Joined: 04/09
Posted: 02/29/12
11:50 PM

It's nearly 11pm and I just got home from work so in the morning I will try this & let you know what I find. I do have a Digital Volt Meter. Also if the Corvette will start. You have some amazing tricks & resources with your vast knowledge. Thanks.  
Gregorio Lonewolf

lonewolf11 lonewolf11
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 105 | Joined: 04/09
Posted: 03/01/12
01:04 AM

Wayne, for all of your help I am asking one more favor. Look at the photos I am about to attach and see if by some strange quirky fate I have the plug wires on the distributor in the incorrect location(s)? All of the manuals, texts & blogs & forums, none seem to be able to show a picture with the wires in relationship to where the plugs located in conjunction with the Tach & Bat wires on the HEI distributor. I know~ somwhow the 2nd picture got a bit fuzzy. Posting with my other photos also. Thanks.

137052771?Pref Tab=Photos&Type=Photo

137052769?Pref Tab=Photos&Pn=2&Type=Photo  
Gregorio Lonewolf

waynep7122 waynep7122
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 262 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 03/01/12
05:46 PM

i looked ... the wires seem to be in the proper location....


take some of the wires off the drivers side..  disconnect the HEI wires between the module and the cap. and the BAT and TACH leads...   lay the cap out of the way over on the passenger side of the engine..

bump the engine around till the rotor is pointing toward the number one cap position..

see if you can see the timing marks.. you have to usually look straight down behind the smog pump...   usually these have a 12 o clock timing pointer.. some have a 2 o clock timing pointer..   i am taking that you put it together..

there is one thing that totally STUMPS a lot of people..

ON THE CAM gear..   when the alignment dot is at the BOTTOM.. the cam is ready to fire the #6 cylinder..

when the dot on the cam gear is at the TOP.. its ready to fire the #1 cylinder..
a lot of people stick the distributer in 180 out because of this fact..  

but you had it running..  and then it failed...    have you had the distributer out since it failed???


i really want to make sure that the rotor is pointing in the proper direction when the #1 cylinder is at the top of the compression stroke..

or do you have a timing light .. and somebody to crank the engine while you aim the timing light at the crank marks..  see if its even close..  

waynep7122 waynep7122
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 262 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 03/01/12
05:50 PM

spark...   spark..   spark..  spark...  spark... spark.. spark.... at the proper time on the proper cylinder...


fuel injector pulse...  

lonewolf11 lonewolf11
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 105 | Joined: 04/09
Posted: 03/02/12
10:53 AM

Thanks, I just had to be sure & you are the best person to rely on. BY now you may be tiring of this long drawn out conversation of a non-starting engine.

To answer your comment "I just wish I could find somebody who needs my talents" If I had the money & auto repair business, you would be my #1 guy.

The arm that the Rotor is attached to, after much reading/research about "magnetism" in the distributor how crucial is this metal arm being free of rust? The age that my car is it is showing rustiness. I have read where this may be a factor in regards to how it effects the magnetic field.

No! I have never taken the distributor out as yet, the engine builder did all this when building & installing the engine. Yes it was running fine until the EGR temp Sensor Switch wire broke off. I read the result of this could cause the excessive richness running resulting in the piston rings to go bad thus causing internal damage. Yes, I do have a timing light but usually no one home to assist me.

To be able to see the "dot" on the Cam Gear I must remove the Timing Cover(?). When the rotor is pointing at the #1 cap position (2 O'clock Timing Pointer) are you saying that the Cam Dot should be at the bottom or top? It sounds like it should be at the top if I interpret this correctly. I probably and should replace the Timing Cover Gasket when I do this vs re-using the original gasket. I have just looked this up at CompCams and am now wondering if my stock distributor & gear is capatable with the CompCams Cam that is installed. I am checking on this with a tech at CompCams now.

BTW, I googled this and got my answers and am about to do this.
Good news, I just got the day off to have time to do all this. Off to doing it....  
Gregorio Lonewolf

lonewolf11 lonewolf11
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 105 | Joined: 04/09
Posted: 03/02/12
12:31 PM

BTW, to see tha Cam Gear Dot, the Oil Pan also has to be removed. And to do this there is also the K Frame to manuveur as well as the Oil Cooler line.  Much work involved but I am going for it. I also found where the negative battery cable is located, had been re-routed to the bottom of the engine block with other grounds. I can see it clearly so easily replaceable.  
Gregorio Lonewolf

lonewolf11 lonewolf11
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 105 | Joined: 04/09
Posted: 03/06/12
11:56 PM

I would like to publicly Thank waynep7122 for all of his help & many threads. His knowledge, helpfulness and kind words have been gratefully acknowledged here. Now that we have found what my start problem is, a Noid Light & checking the Ohms of the Fuel Injectors, has given me new life into a new motor with just 123 miles on it.

Thanks wayne, we will keep in touch. See you in LA this summer in my Corvette.  
Gregorio Lonewolf

waynep7122 waynep7122
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 262 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 03/07/12
09:25 AM

BTW, to see tha Cam Gear Dot, the Oil Pan also has to be removed. And to do this there is also the K Frame to manuveur as well as the Oil Cooler line.  Much work involved

sorry.. i know that i have talked to you about this after the post went up..

i was talking about the people who keep track of where they install the distributer.. by knowing the cam and crank marks lined up.. with the cam mark at the 6 and the crank mark at 12..  that is actually the proper position for the #6 cylinder to fire.. not the number one..

this is why i try to mention to pull the #1 spark plug and  bump the engine over to get compression coming from that.. and then bring the crank damper marks up to TDC to install the distributer..

i thought i would clarify this issue as it has caused many people incredible problems..  

lonewolf11 lonewolf11
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 105 | Joined: 04/09
Posted: 03/17/12
06:40 PM

Wayne, I got my Bosch III Injectors today, Saturday, and Monday the Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator will arrive from Corvette Clinic. So~ now that I have everything apart and with these new goodies I am ready to install & get this thing running. Question I have is that I saw someplace where you mentioned, suggested using a soapy solution on the Injector O-Rings? I can't seem to find it now. What do you suggest I use to lube the O-Rings before installing? While I have it apart I am painting the runner's & plenum as well as a few other parts that I wanted done when the engine was being built. Just my quirky detail oriented self wanting not just performance but it needs to look good doing so.  
Gregorio Lonewolf

waynep7122 waynep7122
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 262 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 03/17/12
07:20 PM

Are you Kidding.. soapy water..

WD40...  white lithium grease...   vasoline..

i have even used a drop of motor oil carefully spread out around the oring to let it slip in...

warning the ford factory upper Orings are a different size as i recall than the GM fuel rail orings..

please.. also.. try to find some reddish colored orings for the fuel side of the injector seals...



Gp Sorensen/Fuel Injector O-Ring For your 1987 Chevrolet Corvette 5.7L FI 8cyl Part Number: 800-9212

don't accept different parts..

black injector rings can be used for the bottom of the injector..

Gp Sorensen/Fuel RAIL O-Ring
For your 1987 Chevrolet Corvette 5.7L FI 8cyl
Part Number: 800-9211

this comes with the cold start injector oring...

 

waynep7122 waynep7122
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 262 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 03/17/12
07:35 PM

these are the proper orings for the threaded fuel line fititngs..

Gp Sorensen/Fuel Injector O-Ring
For your 1987 Chevrolet Corvette 5.7L FI 8cyl
Part Number: 800-9214






this is the large size for the fuel lines and the filter..



Gp Sorensen/Fuel Injector O-Ring
For your 1987 Chevrolet Corvette 5.7L FI 8cyl
Part Number: 800-9215

seems some of the sorenson products might not be available..  

lonewolf11 lonewolf11
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 105 | Joined: 04/09
Posted: 03/19/12
09:32 AM

No I wasn't kidding but I could not believe the soapy water thing, it must have been for another post. Vaseline is what I have. The O-rings were installed by my friends at Fuel Injection Connection with the correct O-rings needed. They were very helpful & I would recommend them to everyone. Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator is due to arrive today then all will be complete. By Wednesday (my work schedule otherwise) I should have the Corvette on the road. I am being positive in nature here. Grin  
Gregorio Lonewolf

87corvette 87corvette
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 171 | Joined: 03/12
Posted: 04/13/12
08:16 AM

Which Hylomar product do you use for head gaskets?  

waynep71222 waynep71222
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 241 | Joined: 04/12
Posted: 04/13/12
08:36 AM

permatex sells one that works great..   #85249   don't let any body talk you into something other than hylomar..  

85249

Permatex® Hylomar® Universal Blue Racing Formula Gasket Dressing & Flange Sealant

Adopted worldwide by many automotive manufacturers and countless race teams for sealing gas and diesel engines and transmissions.

This non-chlorinated gasketing and sealing compound has been specially formulated to be non-setting and non-hardening at elevated temperatures. It withstands rapid changes in temperature and remains flexible and tacky even at high temperatures, allowing repeated disassembly and reassembly in high performance applications. This no-run formula seals surface imperfections on machined flanges and is vibration resistant. Temperature range of -60°F to +500°F (-50°C to +260°C); resists engine fluids, including water, coolant, gasoline, lubricating oils, kerosene and some refrigerants. Also possesses dust and moisture proofing properties.  

87corvette 87corvette
Duntov Incarnate | Posts: 171 | Joined: 03/12
Posted: 04/14/12
06:35 PM

Whew!  $15 for 1.2 ounces.  It must be good!  

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