One divorce, two Vettes, a few problems.

My wife and I are splitting and also splitting the Vettes. I am taking the 73, she, the 76. The Vettes have been mostly sitting the past couple of years as we have been in a not so happy marriage...but now its going to be much better, however the Corvettes had some issues I sorta ignored, until now.

I told her I would take care of a few issues the 76 has, plus my 73 has a couple itself. This is where you guys come in.

Her 76 only really has one issue and its the starter. When it was started often, this problem didn't happen as often, now, all the time. When you turn the key to start, nothing happens. I have tapped on it in the past and it would sometimes start.

The battery is charged and everything that lights up lights up, radio is strong. So before I spend the money on her car for a starter, what do you guys think? I wondered if it could be something in the ignition also..?

On my 73, I have a water pump leak, coming from the bottom of the pump, so I am changing out pump, looks to not be coming from any hose or anything like that.

Buying the adapter they make and changing out my tach cable, it broke again, a few years ago.

The only other thing the 73 has is a power steering fluid leak, typical I know. It does look like its coming from the power steering valve, not the power steering pump. I was wondering if I can get away with just a new psv or should I get the whole renew kit, with hoses, cylinder, etc.

Thanks for any and all help.  

starter problems...

the solenoid windings are not grounded to the case.... when power comes down the wire...  up to 50 amps...  it goes through the solenoid winding and comes out the bottom stud that is connected to the brushes...  so all the power to the solenoid is run through the brushes the armature. back through another brush and to ground..



the upper left corner shows the wiring for the 76 starter




the problem is this diagram does not show the multiple passes through the bulkhead connectors and where the ignition switch gets power..   the ignition switch on the side of the column can also have burned internal contacts..

you might want to pick up a starter repair kit at the local parts store...  install new brushes... after properly cleaning the armature...   be sure to get the brush screws tight...    or    replace the starter if it looks bad inside.. shows signs of rubbing the armature ...

you will also want to verify that you don't have a problem between the battery and the starter solenoid S terminal.. it does go through several connectors... and a few switches...

before replacing the starter... you might want to verify that all the starter and solenoid bolts are tight...  where the wires attach.. where the studs stick out through the solenoid face cap....

be sure to take the solenoid apart...   leave the top post nut on..  but all the others come off..   you can check the internal contacts...

if you have a volt meter... you can .. measure voltage drop across the circuit.. from the battery to the purple wire to the starter... set digital volt meter to 20 volt DC scale...   hook from the positive battery to the fuse box inside the car.. yep.. you need a longer test lead wire usually..   see if there is more than 0.06 volts when you try to crank the engine..


you might also want to stop over at some parts store.. pick up one of the many starter buttons.. install it as a back up... so if it fails to start.. she can always push the button to get it going.. this is from autozone..  other people sell them for more..

Dorman/Conduct-Tite 60 Amps starter switch with sealed push button
Price:$9.99   Part Number: 85984







i know.,.  fix it right..  but.. with an exwife... this is like having a prenup.. car won't start!!! push the button..


as for the leaking control valve.. there are also seal kits available..

i seem to recall an article on rebuilding these in some of the magazines..  could be in one of the mustang magazines as the valves are similar if not the same...




there are wiring diagrams for the 76 online.. google them...  

Coincidentally, your description of a mechanical issue sort of parallels the relationship I had with my X before the "Great Divide":

" ... When it was started often, this problem didn't happen as often, now, all the time. When you turn the key to start, nothing happens. I have tapped on it in the past and it would sometimes start."


hmmmm  

jetdoc3037  welcome aboard

Old school quick check for starter problem. If you can tap the starter as someone is cranking the engine try it more then once.  

Bob  

heay jetdoc have you got a job for a retired Fuel Control Specialist. I also did R&D on the CSD's.

On your P/S leak try some sealer. I didn't believe in them but over the past years they have made good progress with sealers of all types.

You know what you have to with the water pump, just replace it. and your tach cable unless you use your car a lot the lube drys in the sheath, sometime you geta warning they start clicking and bouncing before they break. I'm assuming your Vettes are small blocks. Good Luck... Sorry about your break-up my wife and I will be married 45 years the 23rd on the month. It's still hard work...Take care
Bob  

I also like to install the remote solenoid for the chevy starters.  Kits are sold, but it is easy to fabricate.  Mad Engineering is a good resource as well.