I have a 2007 Z06 and when accelerating with an rpm over 3,000 the clutch pedal will occasionally stick to the floorboard, has any one else had this problem, any solutions? thanks  

Lots of people have had that problem with C5, but I thought the C6s had it pretty well cured.  Make sure you have good clean fluid in the clutch reservoir (turkey baster the old out and refill a couple times after use) and remove the clutch assist spring on the pedal. (you don't need it anyway)  

has anyone ever heard of 04 z06, with vararam, slp exhuast, breaking a clutch on a 2000 rpm launch? with street tires.  

I, too, have had something like that happen twice in my '07 Z06. Both times I was downshifting aggressively (active safety, dodging idiots on I-10). I neither over-revved nor hit the limiter, but I wasn't as smooth in my shifting as I had planned on being (kind of happens when you're just tooling along and then have to make sudden and violent reactions). Though I can't tell you what RPM I was at, it was definitely beyond 3000.

On both occasions, the clutch pedal failed to release all the way up to the top at first. The clutch was fully engaged, and the tranny wasn't slipping, but the pedal was just a little wonky. Subsequent shifts gave a slightly different feel with longer-than-normal travel and lighter back pressure in the clutch pedal for about 10 minutes and then things were back to normal after 5 or so subsequent shifts.

Again, it's only happened twice in 14k+ miles of driving (Z06 makes a great road-car and daily driver), and nothing came up when it was serviced, so I'm guessing this is not doing any major harm. I just have to work on my accident avoidance downshifting (and heel-and-toe is not as easy as I would like for my feet on the Z06 pedal placement).  

common problem if 3500 to 4000rpm or above launches when you slip the clutch to avoid tire spin, or to keep rpm up on launch with slicks.  this technique gets best quarater mile times with slicks but heat created by clutch slippage causes problems with fluid overheat.  I hope they fix this with zr1.  I used a dual disc after market clutch and changed to a higher heat rated fluid available through GM (I still have the problem but it is less frequent), with old fluid and original clutch pedal would fade to floor every run when slipping clutch for high rpm launch.  GM knows of the problem and recommends changing to the different fluid but this alone won't help much.  low rpm launches avoid the problem but hurt track times.   and speeds.  

bwmooney:
I, too, have had something like that happen twice in my '07 Z06. Both times I was downshifting aggressively (active safety, dodging idiots on I-10). I neither over-revved nor hit the limiter, but I wasn't as smooth in my shifting as I had planned on being (kind of happens when you're just tooling along and then have to make sudden and violent reactions). Though I can't tell you what RPM I was at, it was definitely beyond 3000.

On both occasions, the clutch pedal failed to release all the way up to the top at first. The clutch was fully engaged, and the tranny wasn't slipping, but the pedal was just a little wonky. Subsequent shifts gave a slightly different feel with longer-than-normal travel and lighter back pressure in the clutch pedal for about 10 minutes and then things were back to normal after 5 or so subsequent shifts.

Again, it's only happened twice in 14k+ miles of driving (Z06 makes a great road-car and daily driver), and nothing came up when it was serviced, so I'm guessing this is not doing any major harm. I just have to work on my accident avoidance downshifting (and heel-and-toe is not as easy as I would like for my feet on the Z06 pedal placement).

My clutch pedal fading to floor problem got exponentially worse as I increased my launch RPM, and used clutch slippage verses wheel spin.

General Motors has tried to fix the problem which can occur in just hard driving by making available a substitute fluid.  The part number they recommend is #88958860.  Chevy's part counter can find it but its not in their published materials it is a new recommendation.  GM calls it   super DOT 4.  Standard DOT 3 fluid has a wet (moisture sturated) boiling point of about 140 C and the pedal fades quickly when clutch/misc heat causes the fluid near the throw out bearing to approach that temperature.  When fresh fluid is lst put in your car it has a higher boiling point called dry boiling point but for fluid you intend to leave in the clutch, the wet boiling point is what is critical.  All but DOT 5 (silicone) fluids work well  to remove moisture from your brake system/clutch system to prevent corrosion causing "wet boiling point".
 Other fluids to help the clutch fade/pedal loss are:
ATE BLUE: 280C DRY BOILING, 200C WET BOILING DOT4
MOTUL RBF600 312C DRY AND   212C WET         DOT4
CASTROL SRF  310C DRY       270C WET        
STANDARD                    140C WET         DOT3

The Castrol may have silicone in it that reduces its ability to remove moisture/corrosion.  

Using a dual disc clutch will also help reduce the heat generated.  Maybe Chevy will fix it someday totally.   Stock 505HP Z06, street slicks, (same diameter as stock tires) cool engine, sea level atmospheric pressure of about 30.20 can reach times consistently between 10.9 and 11.3 seconds with high RPM clutch slippage launches...assuming your clutch doesn't fail.